25 Responses

1. Thank you for this video, can you please tell me where I could easily find plates like that (what they are called?)

2. yes and no … the reason I went this direction was that I noticed the connections were loose after extended run times … purely my own observations …

   the quick disconnects are easy and convenient, so its not like I am knocking them … they work pretty well … but if you take temp readings at the connections before and after soldering, you will note less heat at your connections after soldering … nothing more scientific, sorry …

3. well, this of course depends on what you are trying to get done …

   my devices tend to have between 8,000 and 12,000 square inches of surface area and are designed to run on 120vAC rectified … my requirement is for between 10 and 20 liters per minute of productivity … I would not be able to achieve these design goals with 11 plates …

4. is this 101 plate dry cell better than say a 11 plate dry cell? it looks like it would take more power to use the 101 dry cell then the 11.

5. the quick connectors we decided to use on these were a consideration to the experimenter who might want to play with the device in a number of setups … for that purpose it works great … but once you have decided on a layout that works for you, the quick connectors start looking a bit frail … soldering them makes for a more solid, semi-permanent connection … in my own tests, my 101 plate device ran 10 degrees cooler and pulled 1 amp less power after soldering … try it yourself and see .

6. Is there any real testing that shows soldering improves output ? I know it sounds
   really obvious, better connection,less wasted voltage.

   TIA

7. try a solder with silver content … its commonly available … the stuff I used was purchased at radio shack … worked quite well actually … still holding months later …

8. Only problem is solder will not take to stainless steel

9. thank you so much for the welth of knowlege!

10. In my own case, the use of the quick connector was a convenience. Not sure I would have been able to get a bare copper wire to stick. However, I have been told that by the EBN R&D team that there is a solder known to adhere much better to stainless steel than the stuff I was using. So we shall see when I do next tear down and rebuild.

    The junk solder I used worked, but I am told the connection may not have the durability I want. So will try the low temp silver solder.

11. I have to wonder why bother with installing a quick connector at all if you are going to solder it to the plate. Why not tin the stranded wire, tin the plate tab, and then just join the two with a liberal drop of solder?

    Another tip is to make sure that there is absolutely no movement of the parts while the solder is cooling, going from the molten state to solid. Otherwise you will have a “cold joint” full of fractures which will be mechanically weak and electrically high in resistance.

12. thanks … I will have to try some of that … the stuff I used was just what was laying around … it seems to have worked ok as the connections on my device are now running cool to the touch … before, they were hot as a $2 pistol …

13. Thanks Scarecrow, enjoy your videos!! The best solder for this kind of work is Stay-Brite low temp silver solder comes with liquid flux ,flows easly with a standard solder gun, high strength..can solder flattened stranded wire directly to the plate. can be found on e-bay $6.00 plus shipping. once you try this stuff you’ll keep it on the bench.

14. lift that barge, tote that bail, make that video, fix that monster electrolyzer …

    oh well, sometimes its hard to be me …

15. SmartScarecrow needs to get cracking on that monster of his. Goodyear called and wants to contract with us to refill their fleet of blimps.

16. LOL!!! 55 gallon drum leaking? You’re killing me! Everyone knows that you need to talk to “leakfree” about that problem!

    I kinda like mason jars for their shrapnel dispersationism. That glass is tempered, and should provide maximum penetration to all surrounding.

17. Last time I went hunting for them, I found them on eBay from a seller called “cwc2337”. He had quite the selection of odd ball connectors. Think I paid about $15 for 50 of them. They are sometimes hard to find as I guess they are not real popular. The more common ones seem to loose their spring tension and are of a much softer material.

18. were do you get the stainless steel conectors

19. One good thing about not getting a paid is that you cant be influenced by withholding your paycheck.

    ;)

20. I know everyone wants to see the monster in action .. but I am having some problems with it that need to be resolved … electrical connections over heating was one problem and is why I got elected to make this video for EBN to document the solution … the other problem is I need to build one of those measuring devices to show how much it puts out and I am having trouble with the 55gal drum leaking …

21. I’d like to see the monster dry cell in action next, please please with sugar on top!

22. Thank you. But be carefull with the praise. I may get a big head and decide to ask the boss for a raise. Then again, maybe I should ask him for a paycheck FIRST, then ask him for a raise!!! yeah, that’s the ticket!!!

23. To make sure it will do maximum damage to any and all who dare stay within range, I like the 2 quart Vlasic Pickle jar. If you look closely, you will notice that this jar is perfectly designed to ensure maximum fragmentation and superior shrapnel disapation. That would be my number 1 choice for sure!!!

24. oh my … the solder was just what I had laying around … it is Radio Sahck branded 60/40 in .032 dia. rosin core solder but I suspect any good solder suitable for electronics would be fine …

25. Love the video Scarecrow. Really good idea to make good solid electrical connections. You might want to post the type of soldier for the new bee’s